It’s a new season with a whole new world of want-to-wear make-up. But be warned, the new looks may be gorgeous but they are also pretty uncompromising; however, even with such clear cut trends (colour, Sixties, bright lip, super natural), there is still enough range (from Neon to nude) for us to pick and choose the looks we will want to wear. For the key trends from the catwalks, and how to make them work in real life, here is my guide to the new looks.
Whatever your look this Spring it all starts here with an immaculate polished, spa-perfect skin…Backstage, the secret to getting this perfection was in layering up products rather than relying on one cover-all base. Hydrating serums and dewy moisturisers prep the skin before primer,
concealer, and base are blended on, with
powder to mattify and luminous highlight for
glow on the cheekbone, all contribute to
this perfect finish. Light layers, carefully
blended ensure the look is of beautiful skin,
not beautiful make-up.
Powdered T-zones and a silvery shimmer on brow and cheekbones give that luxe definition to skin; ‘it’s that mannequin finish.’ explains Andrew Gallimore, make-up artist. A perfectly groomed brow or softly lined eye is the only other make-up needed, with lips bare except for balm – any lip colour (in any shade of nude) was dabbed on with a fingertip for the most natural finish.
everywhere from Balmain, Blumarine and Preen to Nicole Farhi, House of Holland and Alexander Wang
Start with fresh moisturised skin – anything hydrating plumps up every skin type; try mixing a hydrating serum like Darphin’s Hydraskin into your face cream for a super skin treat. Save time with this make-up pro trick; backstage they mixed primer 2:1 with foundation to get that real fresh skin finish.
Use a compact powder foundation with a big brush to dust down the centre of the face – it makes a good alternative to loose powder
– Brow gel to give that groomed finish – brush brows upwards for that ‘handsome’ brow – think Carine Roitfeld, ex-French Vogue Editor. Try Benefit’s Speed Brow Gel
– Silvery or white glitter-free highlight like L’Oréal Lumi Magique
to blend under the outer eye, high up on the cheekbone.
– Powder to matte shine – skin has to be velvety. (Daniel Sandler’s Blotting Powder
– Contour to blend under cheekbones (it’s a blusher free-season), a matte bronzer or taupe cream eye shadow works equally well if blended out.
– Lip balm.
Coming a definite second to the bright lip this season, there were still some beautifully defined eyes on the catwalks. The main focus shifts from the top lid to the lower, with liner and colour now used on lower lashes alone. From a flash of turquoise kohl at Stella McCartney, to the smouldering brown smokey under-eye at DVF, it’s the quickest way to up-date your look. Alternatively, the classic flick of (upper lid) liner is updated from black to navy and drawn shorter; keep it as long as the lash line, without any extra ‘flick’ at the end. Or for a
softer look molten silver and bronze look
beautiful blended over the eye lid or
as shimmering highlights on the eyes.
whichever look you choose keep it simple; one wash of colour over the lids, one line of pencil on or under the eyes. Navy, greens, blues, metallics and layered up browns look newer than black (except when it comes to mascara, where the only shade this season is glossy black).
DVF, Carolina Herrera, Elie Saab, Matthew Williamson, Chloé, Marc Jacobs
Up-date the classic smokey eye to a more rounded, ringed eye, or use soft bronze or taupes to give a softer more hazy than smokey eye. Layer up pencil and liquid liners to get a real intensity right into the root of the lashes – and load up your lashes – either with layers of black mascara or get to grips with false lashes.
Make colour more wearable by using as a line or wash over the top lid, finished with a thin black liner right in at the lash root and loads of black mascara.
The hottest look of this season, there is no avoiding the bright statement lip. Backstage the makeup artists described it as ‘one idea’ make-up, as in a ‘perfect skin and a hot lip’ as Lucia Pieroni, make-up artist, described it backstage at Giles.
From full on neon to bright clear shades of coral, pink and summer red, the finish has to be velvety matte – backstage a sheer dusting of powder over lips help matte down any possible shine. For that real intensity of colour, make-up pros pressed pure colour pigment over lipstick for an almost ‘sunblock neon’ look or layered up red with pink for that colour-rich, almost 3D finish.
Prada, Giles, Jason Wu, Paul Smith, Missoni
With so much colour around this season, wearing it on the lips makes the most wearable option. Think of that red lip and defined eye make-up classic but now up-dated for summer with a bright matte coral or pink. YSL Rouge Pur Couture Lipsticks
come in a great selection of colours
Define and then fill in the lips with a lip pencil in your chosen shade of bright – this gives more lasting power and that matte finish. Or use that as your base underneath before finishing with a layer of the exact colour-matched lipstick.
- Lip pencil to match your favourite bright lipstick- Lip balm to prep and plump lips
– Soft blending brush like Stila’s All Over blending brush
to help matte lip colour.
Blot down any gloss or satin finish with a light dusting of loose powder (put one sheet of tissue over the lips and dust powder over it – or dab finished lips with your finger tip to ‘tap down’ any sheen.
Think Pop Art meets make-up with flashes of neon for eyes, lips and nails, or for the less brave (and that’s most of us…) aquatic shades of blues and greens look just beautiful on the eyes. The idea is to focus on one ‘strategic’ shot of colour’ (as described backstage at the shows) so the look is clean and modern, not a mad colour clash.
Keep colour matte and totally shimmer- or gloss-free. Clear, bright colours look newest and keep it to one place – eye liner (now worn shorter and without any flick), or as a coloured contour in the crease of the eye, or as a shot of bright kohl to line the eye.
Don’t be restricted, backstage at Donna Karen, Charlotte Tilbury make-up artist, used a magenta lip liner on the eyes.
Donna Karen, Dior, Peter Som, Michael Kors, Missoni
Brights still work best on lips or nails, but the new blues (from sky to cobalt to turquoise to navy) are so easy to wear and look so much fresher than black, check out bareMinerals READY eyeshadow collection
. Go for that one flash of bright and then keep the rest (skin, cheeks, etc) neutral and natural – and avoid any thoughts of tan or bronzer, it just makes anything bright look trashy.
- Creamy bright coloured eye liners look great (and more wearable) finished with glossy black mascara. Try YSL’s Cream Eyeliners in black blue or black green
– Flawless skin kit (base, powder and concealer) as skin has to look perfect against this full on flash of colour.
Updated with shots of colour and modern textures (with beautiful skin and balmy lips) this takes the best bits of the Sixties – swept over fringes, sexy dark eyes and soft balmy lips – without making it look like a retro fancy dress party. Shades of dark brown, or even better, shimmery navy, look newer for a dark eye than the usual black – plus the new, rounder eye shape looks pretty and doe-eyed.
Keep eye liner lines shorter – as long as the line of lashes and not pulled out into a flick. And while the eyes can be strong, a natural eye but defined brow looks good as well. If you haven’t mastered it already, now is the time to get to grips with false lashes – with layers of mascara (up to seven at some shows) everywhere, nothing still looks as good as a few falsies.
Louis Vuitton, Moschino, Marc Jacobs, Dior, Michael Kors. Anna Sui
It’s about being inspired by the Sixties rather than a total revisit. Sticking with the mono-chrome shades of black and white is easiest – shots of matte white in the centre of the eye lid, or as a sheen on the inner corners looks beautiful against black lashes, try Rimmel’s Kohl Pencil in soft white
. Or swap the usual Sixties taupes for a flash of colour, like Dick Page’s turquoise ‘banana’ of colour in the eye crease Michael Kors.
For a quick eye up-date use black eye liner pencil inside the lower lid and right along the lash line on the upper lid, then intensify with liquid liner on the lash line and finish with mascara – the more the better.
- False lashes, start practising now this is one talent you need to perfect. Eylure lashes
are a great starter kit- Mascara – the richer and blacker the better. I’ve always been a fan of Benefit’s Bad Gal
for extreme lashes.
– Eye liner; pencil, gel and liquid liner to layer up in dark shades of brown or navy.